Vrelo Bosne: Sarajevo’s Austro-Hungarian Park and the Carriage Ride Along Velika Aleja
At the foot of Mount Igman, on the western edge of Sarajevo, the river Bosna rises from dozens of cold, clear springs. Around them lies Vrelo Bosne, a park of wooden bridges, small islands, swans and old trees that has been Sarajevo’s favourite escape for well over a century. Getting there is half the fun: you can ride a traditional horse-drawn carriage along Velika Aleja, the long tree-lined avenue the Austro-Hungarians planted in the 1890s. Here is the story of the park and how to plan your visit.
How the Austro-Hungarians turned Ilidža into a spa resort
People have used the warm sulphur springs of Ilidža since Roman times, when a settlement called Aquae Sulphurae stood here. The modern resort, however, was built after Austria-Hungary took over Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1878. In 1885 the provincial government took charge of the spa and began to develop it into an elegant European resort, with grand hotels such as the Hungaria, Austria and Bosna, and villas along the new avenue. Ilidža soon attracted guests from across the monarchy and beyond, and much of that Austro-Hungarian architecture still stands today.
Velika Aleja, the Grand Avenue
The heart of the project was Velika Aleja, the Grand Avenue that links the spa hotels of Ilidža with the springs. It was planted in 1893 with around 3,000 chestnut and plane trees and runs straight for about 3.5 kilometres. Today the avenue is closed to cars, so locals walk, jog and cycle under the trees. It is beautiful in every season: fresh green in spring, cool shade in summer and gold and red in autumn.
A ride in a traditional horse-drawn carriage
The most charming way to reach the springs is by fijaker, the open horse-drawn carriage that has carried visitors along Velika Aleja for generations. The carriages wait at the Ilidža end of the avenue, and the slow ride under the old trees, with the sound of hooves on the road, feels like a trip back to the days of the Austro-Hungarian resort. It is a favourite with families, couples and anyone who wants to save their legs for a walk around the park.
Carriages take a small group per ride, so it is easy for a family or a couple to have one to themselves.
Agree the price with the driver before you set off and carry cash in Bosnian marks (KM).
If you prefer, walk one way and take the carriage the other. The walk takes about 45 minutes at an easy pace.
What to see at the springs
At the end of the avenue the river Bosna appears in a maze of streams, small waterfalls and green islands linked by wooden bridges. The water is cold and crystal clear, and swans and ducks are part of the scenery. The area is protected as a natural monument and is looked after by the Sarajevo Canton institute for protected natural areas, so a small entrance fee is charged to visitors. There are cafés and restaurants inside the park where you can sit by the water, especially popular on weekends.
Not far from the park, at Plandište, stands the Roman Bridge, a stone bridge built in the 16th century using stones from an earlier Roman bridge. It is a short detour if you are interested in the long history of the area.
Tips for your visit
Getting there: Ilidža is about 12 km from the Old Town. Take tram number 3 to the last stop in Ilidža and walk to the start of Velika Aleja, or let us pick you up from your hotel on a private tour.
Best time: spring and autumn are the most beautiful. Weekdays and mornings are quieter than weekends.
Bring cash in Bosnian marks (KM) for the carriage, the entrance fee and the cafés.
Wear comfortable shoes for the paths and bridges, and bring a light jacket, as the springs are cooler than the city.
Plan two to three hours for the carriage ride, a walk around the springs and a coffee by the water.
How far is Vrelo Bosne from Sarajevo Old Town? Ilidža is about 12 km from the Old Town, and the springs are at the end of the 3.5 km Velika Aleja. By car it takes about 30 minutes, by tram and carriage a little longer.
Is there an entrance fee? Yes, a small fee is charged at the entrance to the protected area. It goes towards the upkeep of the park.
Can you drive to the springs? No. Velika Aleja is closed to cars, so most visitors walk, cycle or take a horse-drawn carriage along it.
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